Recently, there’s been this fashion trend going around TikTok. To most people, it doesn’t seem that harmless, but the way this trend has been handled is heavily detrimental. Western fashion brands have been appropriating South Asian cultural clothes without proper acknowledgement or respect. This began with brands such as Oh Polly and Reformation, which were called out by South Asian influencers and others for appropriating cultural clothes such as lehengas, shararas, and shalwar kameez. This critical response has been handled very poorly by these companies.
Oh Polly’s Sharara Controversy
Oh Polly is a UK based brand which came under scrutiny for releasing an outfit which heavily resembled a sharara–a South Asian gown with flared pants and a tunic. Oh Polly was criticized for marketing the gown as a “convertible gown” without acknowledging its cultural roots. Critics argued that the brand was repackaging South Asian fashion and heritage for Western audiences without paying tribute to the culture and rich history behind said fashion, an action that was highly insensitive especially at a time when hatred against South Asians online was at an all time high. Oh Polly declined to comment on the backlash and was even found deleting comments about it.
The Issue of Cultural Appropriation in Fashion
Oh Polly is only one example of a brand that has taken South Asian culture and repackaged it as something Western. It’s totally acceptable to appreciate South Asian culture, especially as it is viewed as underappreciated by many; however, the way Oh Polly and other brands have been approaching this issue is appropriation, not appreciation. This attitude about South Asian culture has enabled further harmful trends, such as calling South Asian dupattas “Scandinavian scarves,” another example of rebranding and repackaging South Asian fashion as something Western. This cultural appropriation of South Asian fashion has heavily harmed South Asians online. As many have pointed out, their culture has often been mocked and undervalued, and it is ironic that it is now being repackaged as something that is not theirs. There is also a long history of colonialism in South Asia to consider, which still harms individuals today.
It’s important to recognize the difference between cultural appropriation and appreciation, and the connection between fashion and politics. Despite the blatant disrespect that these brands have displayed, it is uplifting to see South Asian culture be popularized in the Western world. Moving forward, there must be a balance between promoting South Asian culture and recognizing its rich origins.
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